Queen of the hill

I have many shortcomings as a long distance cyclist, but perhaps the most significant is my pathological hatred for cycling uphill. Nothing can break me down like cycling up a hill where I can't see the end. Combined, my bike, kit, water and I weigh 150kg, which Google tells me is the weight of an … Continue reading Queen of the hill

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When the going got tough

The last time I was in Croatia, I recalled as I sat in my sweltering tent at 2am, dabbing hydro-cortisone cream on one of the 40 mosquito bites to which I was having an allergic reaction, I was reviewing a luxury hotel in Dubrovnik, lazing at waterside bars and searching out truffles. I’d expected the … Continue reading When the going got tough

The ultimate cycle tourist guide to campsites along the Rhine (wild and not so wild)

What makes the perfect campsite? One thing I've discovered since I started cycling around the world is that my pitch priorities have changed dramatically. On weekend expeditions with friends in England we'd look for a good space to congregate and make lots of noise; somewhere with a shop where we were allowed to light campfires. … Continue reading The ultimate cycle tourist guide to campsites along the Rhine (wild and not so wild)

​Natural law

“Trust your instincts” is one of the most clichéd pieces of advice you’re given before embarking on a trip like this. It’s also one of the most accurate: if a road feels weird don’t go down it; if an offer of hospitality feels suspicious don’t take it; if a wild campsite feels unsafe it’s probably got … Continue reading ​Natural law