Not so blue on the Danube

I have a confession to make. I have fallen in love with a river other than the Rhine. The Danube started inauspiciously, and when I say inauspiciously I mean there were hills.  After a few wonderful days off at the end of the Rhine, in Lake Constance, with my sister and her boyfriend - visiting … Continue reading Not so blue on the Danube

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Going backwards

Through it may prove to be a kind of narrative suicide that ties me up in knots later, I cannot begin without waxing, briefly, about the wonderful French town of Gambsheim, which I now believe to be the greatest town in Europe.  I awoke in the town, at the far eastern   edge of France … Continue reading Going backwards

​Natural law

“Trust your instincts” is one of the most clichéd pieces of advice you’re given before embarking on a trip like this. It’s also one of the most accurate: if a road feels weird don’t go down it; if an offer of hospitality feels suspicious don’t take it; if a wild campsite feels unsafe it’s probably got … Continue reading ​Natural law